The British established residency in the small Ontario town in 1781. During the War of 1812, Americans captured and destroyed the town, but the British rebuilt it and its historical charm is well maintained today.

Wine bars and artisanal cheese shops and specialty boutiques now occupy the 19th century buildings. Quaint B&Bs and inns sit alongside private mansions on tree-lined side streets. And the flowers, oh the flowers. I’ve never seen such perfectly manicured baskets, beds, and boxes.

We had an authentic British dinner at Moffat Pub: fish ‘n’ chips with a side of mushy peas for Nick and bangers ‘n’ mash for me. (Though I still prefer our homemade bangers ‘n’ mash — I credit the beer and mustard seeds.)

And we couldn’t resist sharing an ice cream cone — nearly everyone we passed had one. Not only does Cows have sweet ice cream flavors (Freckle Frenzy, Wowie Cowie, Moo Crunch), they also have a line of clever t-shirts (Dunder Moofflin, Team Jacowb, Dancing with the Steers). Really, you have to check it out.

Following dinner and dessert, we walked a few blocks to the shore of Lake Ontario to watch the sunset. It was the ideal way to conclude our summer vacation.

Thanks for following along! Here’s a list of all recaps:

• Saratoga Springs: Chianti Ristorante
• Saratoga Springs: Mrs. London’s Bakery and Putnam Market
• Saratoga Springs: The Water that Put the Place on the Map
• Saratoga Springs: BBQ and Cobbler and Fireworks
• Quebec City: The Lower Town
• Quebec City: Le Cochon Dingue
• Quebec City: History, Beers, and Chocolates
• Montreal: The First Day of My 28th Year
• Montreal: The Second Day of My 28th Year
• Montreal Rain to Niagara Mist

Where have you traveled this summer?

Mount Royal (mont Réal in Middle French and Mont Royal in present French) was first discovered by Jacques Cartier in 1535. It is the mountain for which Montreal is named.

The park is one of the city’s largest green spaces. There are numerous hiking trails, a lake, and even a small ski slope. The most visited spot is just a 10-minute walk from the parking lot: Kondiaronk Belvedere, a semicircular plaza with a chalet, overlooking downtown Montreal.

It was hazy when we reached the top, and we could barely make out the skyline, the bridges, and the river. It was not difficult, however, to clearly see the rain clouds that were steadily rolling in.

Just as we started our short decent, the sky opened up and the rain showered down. We ran from the cover of one tree to the next until we finally reached our car — completely soaked.

Fortunately, we had a seven-hour drive to sufficiently dry our clothes (and frizz my hair).

We pulled into the Days Inn at Niagara Falls just as the sun was setting. We were upgraded to the honeymoon suite, which included a fireplace and a red heart-shaped jacuzzi tub. I kid you not. I’m sure it was a hot spot in the 1970s, but, man, was it cheesy.

We didn’t choose the Days Inn for its romance, of course, we chose it for its location.

The next morning we walked across the street and onto the Riverwalk. Nick was less than thrilled that I wanted to walk the roughly 4km for our first view of the Falls (to his defense, we hadn’t yet showered or eaten). He tried to run away from me, but eventually he gave in and posed for the camera.

We passed quaint B&Bs with colorful gardens and a stone church on a corner. And just as we walked under Rainbow Bridge, we saw Niagara Falls in all its glory. It wasn’t as tall as I’d imagined, but the mist was sure impressive.

By the time we got back to our hotel, ate breakfast, and showered, it was after noon and time to head back to the Falls. We got a tip to park a few blocks from River Road to avoid paying $20 in fees, and we felt so proud of ourselves for cheating the tourist trap.

And, oh my, what a tourist trap it was. I didn’t take any photos besides ones depicting natural beauty, but trust me, there were many, many manufactured spectacles. Picture high-rise hotels and chain restaurants, Ripley’s Believe It Or Not and the Guinness World Records Museum, arcades and gaudy souvenir shops.

We walked as quickly as we could through the crowds of screaming toddlers and agitated adults and purchased our tickets for the Maid of the Mist. It’s the one attraction I definitely recommend doing.

The boat ride was brief, but we sat for several still moments under the mist of Horseshoe Falls. It was pretty incredible — the pure, powerful sound of hundreds of thousands of gallons of gushing water.

And despite the commercialism, I do believe the views from the Canadian side are more attractive than those from the American side.

So what did we do that evening? We found a more intimate and comfortable town nearby.

Next up: Niagara-on-the-Lake

First up: A 90-minute guided boat tour along the Saint Lawrence River. We boarded the Bateau-Mouche and cruised past the Olympic Stadium, La Ronde Amusement Park, the Biosphère, and the Molson factory. The cool breeze from the river was a welcome relief from another hot and humid day in Montreal.

From the boat, we saw the birthplace of Montreal at Pointe-à-Callière …

… and the ultramodern Habitat 67.

Afterwards we wondered into Chinatown for lunch. I had poulet à l’orange and Nick had poulet tso générale. And we each chugged at least four glasses of water.

We took in some more sights — Place Jacques-Cartier and Place d’Armes — before returning to our hotel for a break.

Once we had a sufficient amount of time to refresh in our air conditioned hotel room, we were ready to eat again. We were both craving crepes, and Crêperie Chez Suzette delivered.

I ordered La Laurentienne with ham, Swiss cheese, asparagus, and béchamel sauce, and Nick had La Québécoise with ham, Swiss cheese, and Canadian maple syrup. (He was generous enough to allow me to dunk forkfuls of my crepe into his sweet syrup.)

And then the most perfect belated birthday dessert: La Sonia with fresh strawberries and bananas, ice cream, and a Belgium chocolate sauce.

Next up: From Mont-Royal to Niagara Falls

We drove from Quebec City to Montreal on Tuesday night and checked into the Hilton Bonaventure. (Thanks to Uncle Jim and Aunt Vicki for hooking us up!) Have you ever noticed that the size and softness of hotel towels is directly proportional to the cost of the room? Let’s just say the Hilton had the largest, most luxurious towels of our trip.

It was late by the time we arrived, so we asked the concierge for a nearby dinner recommendation. He suggested Brutopia on Crescent Street. It was perfect. We enjoyed honey beers and shared a “Bru Burger” made with ground beef and ham and topped with aioli and avocado.

I woke up the next morning to Nick’s rendition of “Happy Birthday To You.” It’s the fourth birthday I’ve spent with him, and I always look forward to his annual serenades.

We showered, took advantage of the continental breakfast, and headed to our first destination: Notre-Dame Basilica. We’ve both visited European churches and agreed that this North American one ranks as a favorite.

The construction of the sanctuary was completed in 1830, and the interior was finished 40 years later. The decor is dramatic and colorful, and the Gothic architecture is among the most elaborate in the world.

It’s awe inspiring.

We continued our tour of Old Montreal — the part of the city that dates back to New France in the 1600s — with a stroll along Rue Saint Jacques and Rue Saint Paul.

And at this point, I need to acknowledge the heat wave that overwhelmed Montreal during our two-day visit. Temperatures reached record highs of 38°C, which equals 100°F — and that doesn’t even include the humidity factor. Some employees were instructed not to come to work due to the unbearable heat, and cooling stations were set up around the city.

We did our best to see the sights, but were forced to take indoor breaks almost every other hour. One such break was taken at Les 3 Brasseurs.

The microbrewery has 28 locations in France and several in Quebec. I drank the smooth, refreshing blond, and Nick had the aromatic brown. To eat, we had the fish and chips (2/5 stars) and the homemade flamm (a.k.a. pizza) with onions, bacon, mushrooms, and grated gruyere (3/5 stars). The food was not stellar, but the beers were satisfying.

Next we wondered around Marché Bonsecours where local artists — from painters to sculptors to wood carvers — set up shop.

And then it was time for another break. We were in desperate need of a dip in the hotel pool, but instead of walking the hot pavement back to our abode, we decided it was the perfect opportunity to explore what lie beneath.

Montreal’s Underground City is the largest underground complex in the world with close to 20 miles of tunnels. The first connection was constructed in 1962 and expanded drastically throughout the 90s. The labyrinth is as aesthetically appealing as any above ground space and most halls are wide enough to host shops on both sides. There are clothing boutiques and art galleries and sushi restaurants and gelato stands, even banks and dentists.

Now it should be noted that I am not a swimmer. Nor am I a wade in the pool with twenty strangers type of person. But, wow, I have never felt so refreshed by a public pool. We easily could have stayed in the cool water for the remainder of the evening, but we knew there was more exploring to do. So we dragged ourselves out and back into dry clothes and onto the Metro en route to the Latin Quarter.

The original plan was to get drinks and an appetizer at one location and move to another for my birthday dinner. However, after sharing a pitcher of Boréale and finishing less than half of a platter of poutine (never, ever again shall we eat poutine), we were both rather uncomfortable. French fries with cheese curds and gravy? Foolish us for thinking when in Canada, we should do as the Canadians do — they must have stronger stomachs. And did I mention it was hot? And that we were sitting on the terrace?

And so rather than searching for a trendy restaurant, we attempted to “walk out our bellies” along the eclectic Rue Saint Catherine. It runs through the Gay Village and is located near five universities. It’s hip and artsy and full of vibrant life — very good people watching.

Despite the poutine that was still sitting heavy, I insisted we find dessert. I couldn’t let my birthday end without consuming something sweet! Reuben’s Deli it was — for chocolate cake and decaf coffee.

Next up: The birthday celebration continues

The wall was originally built around Quebec City in the 17th century, and the current fortification was constructed by the British in 1820 to protect Canada from American invasion. (I’m happy to report the city never experienced conflict.)

The Changing of the Guard has been a tradition at La Citadelle since 1928. The pomp and circumstance lasted almost 45 minutes and included English translation. (The Royal 22e Régiment is the only French speaking regiment in the Canadian Army.)

Following the demonstration, we toured the grounds — which includes both British and French architecture — and solved the mystery of the goat.

Bâtisse X is the tenth generation mascot of the regiment. The first was presented by the Queen of England.

And in big bold floral letters, the official motto of Quebec: Je me souviens, which means “I remember.” It refers to the French and British heritage of the territory and its establishment as an independent province.

Also, the citadel offers one of the best views of the city and the river.

By that time we were ready for a couple of cold ones. We stumbled upon L’ Oncle Antoine, a charming pub located in an old gunpowder building in the Lower Town. The beers — blonde for Nick and rousse for me — were refreshing, and despite the sweltering heat, I couldn’t resist a bowl of French onion soup. (Noticing a trend?)

We enjoyed our final stroll along Rue St-Pierre and treated ourselves to petite chocolates — well worth the price.

On our way out of the city, we couldn’t resist exploring one more icon: the Parliament Building. It was under construction during our visit, but they masked it well (notice the printed canvas on the left side of the building).

Quebec City is lovely and romantic and proud of its French, British, and Canadian heritage. It’s a small piece of Europe on this side of the Atlantic with it’s own unique local charm.

Next up: Montreal

What do you order on a 95 degree evening from a restaurant with no air conditioning? Steaming seafood pot pie and messy maple ribs, of course.

Okay, perhaps it wasn’t the smartest (or most photogenic) choice, but it was the most delicious meal of our entire trip.

Not one, not two, but three Quebec City locals suggested Le Cochon Dingue for our only dinner in the city, and it lived up to its recommendations.

“The Crazy Pig” opened in the Petit Champlain district in 1979. The menu is full of comfort foods with a bit of French flair: pear, cranberry, and brie in a puff pastry; tartine duck confit and cheddar cheese on country bread; chocolate cake with Chantilly. Canadian influence is also evident in its maple vinaigrette and maple ice cream.

My pot pie included lobster, crab, shrimp, scallop, and salmon from the Magdalen Islands near Nova Scotia. There was not a single bite that I didn’t taste the fresh, tender seafood in cream sauce. (Though I could have done without the side of fries.) I countered the hot dish with a cold biere rousse.

And Nick’s maple house-smoked ribs were incredible. (They would have won our vote in the BBQ festival.) We splurged and ordered the full rack, and between the two of us, we cleaned every bone. To drink, he had a pale ale from Alexander Keith’s.

We were literally sweating by the time we took our last bites and set off in search of a public fountain in which to bathe.

I kid, I kid. We actually returned to our hotel to shower and freshen up and then headed back to the Lower Town to see the Château Frontenac at night. What a beauty she is.

Next up: From Quebec City to Montreal

In fact, we were so engrossed in our French lessons that we missed our exit for Autoroute 20 east. You see, we didn’t have our GPS to reply upon because it lost service when we crossed the border. So I refocused my attention on my map reading responsibilities and soon we were cruising along in the correct direction past John Deeres plowing flat farm fields and strip malls with McDonalds and Ashley Meubles (Ashley Furnitures) and Home Depots.

After seven hours in the car, we were thankful to finally arrive in Old Quebec (which refers to the part of the city within the walls). We had just over 24 hours to explore before we headed back west to Montreal, so we dropped off our luggage in our (tiny, but comfortable) room in the Hotel Clarendon and headed along Rue Sainte-Anne towards the Lower Town.

The Lower Town is filled with streets and buildings dating back to the city’s 17th century beginnings. Samuel de Champlain founded Quebec City in 1608 and named it after the Algonquin word Kébec, meaning “where the river narrows” — in reference to the Saint Lawrence River.

The history of Quebec City is well preserved, and the neighborhood is vibrant and energetic and, at times, eclectic.

We walked the narrow cobblestone streets and wondered into art galleries and jewelry shops and clothing boutiques. And I furiously snapped photos of the unique French signs — both stylish and true to the history of the place.

And from every vantage point in the Lower Town, the most prominent feature in Quebec City is visible: the Château Frontenac. It opened in 1863 and is the most photographed hotel in the world (wikipedia) — thanks to plenty of help from us (more photos to come).

Next up: The crazy pig

• Steamed oysters topped with BBQ sauce and bacon from Saratoga Gaming & Raceway: Sufficiently steamed, but could have used more kick. 2 stars

• BBQ meatballs from The Grey Gelding: A mix of pork, beef, veal, and lamb marinated in apricot BBQ sauce, Caribbean spices, and rum. Big and tasty and meaty and messy. 3 stars

• BBQ ribs from Cantina: Nice flavor, but poor cuts of meat. 2 stars

• Dry rubbed ribs from Saratoga Salsa & Spice Company: So moist that the meat fell right off the bone (and nearly onto the floor). And the homemade sauce (which they were selling bottled — smart entrepreneurs) was finger-lickin, literally. 3 stars

• Hickory smoked pulled pork from Seven Horse Pub: The winning BBQ entry for us! Sweet and mild meat served with a vinegar-based sauce and a hunk of cornbread. A meal to make any Southern mama proud. 4 stars

• Beef and shrimp kebabs from The Parting Glass: Our least favorite of the day. But the Irish pub redeemed itself with professionally poured pints of black and tan. 1 star

• Blueberry peach cobbler from Circus Cafe: One of three desserts we tried, and the clear favorite. In fact, I would rank this dish above the pulled pork (though I think Nick would keep the meat in the top spot). My favorite seasonal fruit may be strawberries, but this dessert tasted like pure summer. The natural sweetness of the fruits really shined, and the biscuit-like cobbler melted in my mouth. The dish was was all hot and bubbly and may have been only slightly better with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. 4 stars

With very full bellies, we made our way back to Congress Park for the evening’s festivities. There was live music and cotton candy and glow sticks, and even Benjamin Franklin made an appearance. The fireworks display was not the best we’ve seen, but the atmosphere felt truly American.

Next up: Bonjour, Canada!

Most people believe fame arrived in Saratoga Springs on horseback. But before the races and the casinos, it was the area’s natural mineral springs that attracted crowds.

During the 19th century, wealthy Americans (like the Vanderbilts and the Rockefellers) spent their summers in Saratoga. They took up residency in one of the many luxurious resorts and indulged in the healing powers of the springs (from curing skin ailments to improving digestion to strengthening the blood).

{source}

In its day the Grand Union Hotel was the largest in the world. Visitors enjoyed golf and polo, orchestras and balls. And neighboring Congress Hall boasted the most expensive restaurant in the world (also where the club sandwich originated).

In 1863 the horses came to town, along with many more visitors with lots of money to spend — and so emerged the casinos and the gambling facilities.

Unfortunately Saratoga Springs lost some prestige during the 1940s when two of its most grandiose hotels burned to the ground. But the city revived itself in the 1960s and it remains a popular destination today.

{Adelphi Hotel}

We weren’t in town during race season, but we did taste that famous water.

There are 17 public springs in Saratoga. Each one is naturally carbonated and has a unique taste, depending on the depth of the well. For example, Congress Spring is just slightly salty, but Hathorn Spring smells strongly of sulfur. I sipped the Congress water, but only Nick was brave enough to sample from Hathorn.

And, yes, we did see several people filling gallon jugs to take home.

We also sampled less holistic (but arguably more tasty) cocktails that afternoon: an espresso martini for me and a Saratoga lager for Nick (from the Adelphi Hotel, pictured above).

Next up: BBQ and cobbler and fireworks

We needed coffee in a big way. And sweets. And so off to Mrs. London’s Bakery we went.

The charming café on Broadway offers a vast selection of gourmet danishes, scones, croissants, tarts, cakes, and more.

After much deliberation, I chose a chocolate croissant, and Nick selected a cranberry cream scone. I could have used more nuggets of dark chocolate in my croissant (when is that not the case), but the pastry itself was perfectly buttery and flaky — and it was nearly as large as my head.

Nick’s choice was also a smart one. It was dense and slightly sweet — just as a scone should be.

We scored a tiny table near the window and contentedly sipped our coffee while watching patrons filter in and out the door. Women with ponytails and belly bumps or trendy slings with sleeping infants snuggled inside. Men wearing ball caps and Sperrys and pushing strollers. Toddlers with curls and rosy cheeks. It was tough not to contract baby fever in the corner of that café — for both genders of this young newlywed couple.

Not only are the wide sidewalks of Saratoga Springs ideal for pushing strollers, they’re also convenient for walking dogs. We saw dogs of every color, size, and breed — including a Bernese Mountain Dog that Nick promptly chased down the street.

We wondered in and out of art galleries and card shops and, of course, we found a store stocked with kitchen goodies.

And then we stumbled upon Putnam Market — another gem in Saratoga Springs. They promote themselves as “the best food and wine between Manhattan and Montreal.” Unfortunately, we arrived a bit too early to fully take advantage of the free sniffs and samples (a la our favorite Ann Arbor establishment: Zingermans).

Mrs. London’s Bakery
464 Broadway
Saratoga Springs, NY

Putnam Market
435 Broadway
Saratoga Springs, NY

Next up: The water that put Saratoga on the map